Famous NYC Delis: Pastrami to Nova

New York City's delicatessens represent more than restaurants serving oversized sandwiches—they're living museums preserving immigrant food traditions through hand-carved pastrami, house-smoked sturgeon, and recipes passed down across four generations. From century-old Lower East Side institutions to Brooklyn's modern interpretations, these seven delis showcase the evolution of Jewish-American cuisine while keeping the craftsmanship that made New York synonymous with the Jewish deli.

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Katz's Delicatessen: The Lower East Side Legend

Operating continuously since 1888, Katz's Delicatessen occupies the corner of Houston and Ludlow streets, across the street from the Ludlow Street storefront where the Iceland brothers first opened their deli. The deli goes through 15,000 pounds of pastrami, 8,000 pounds of corned beef and 4,000 hot dogs a week, and the meat is still carved by hand the way it was when Willy Katz joined the partnership in 1903.

The ticket system remains defiantly analog—customers receive numbered slips at entry and accumulate charges at each counter before settling with cashiers near the exit. This process creates organized chaos during weekend rushes when tourists queue for selfies beneath "Send a salami to your boy in the Army" signage while regulars head straight for the carving counter. The 1989 "When Harry Met Sally" filming location attracts movie pilgrims, but the real draw remains pastrami sandwiches built from beef briskets cured for up to 30 days, rubbed with a house spice blend, smoked, then sliced warm against the grain for maximum tenderness.

What makes Katz's pastrami different from other delis? Curing for up to 30 days allows deeper spice penetration while hand-carving preserves moisture that mechanical slicing destroys. Each sandwich contains roughly half a pound of meat stacked two inches high on seedless rye.

Should I order pastrami or corned beef at Katz's? Pastrami is smoked and peppery, while corned beef is brined but not smoked, so it tastes cleaner and beefier. First-timers should request half-and-half combinations to compare both side by side.

How do I navigate the Katz's ordering system? Keep your ticket throughout your visit—losing it costs $50. Order at the pastrami counter, have the carver mark your ticket, then pay the whole ticket at the cashier by the exit.

Russ & Daughters: Appetizing's Four-Generation Standard

The Russ family has run its appetizing business since 1914, when Joel Russ traded his herring pushcart for a storefront around the corner, and the shop has stood at 179 East Houston Street since 1920. Delis sell cured meats; appetizing shops sell fish and dairy, a split that grew out of the kosher rule against mixing meat and milk.

Fourth-generation owners Niki Russ Federman and Josh Russ Tupper now run four locations: the original counter, a sit-down Orchard Street cafe opened for the business's 100th anniversary, a Brooklyn Navy Yard production facility with visible bagel-baking operations, and a Hudson Yards outpost featuring glass-enclosed preparation areas. The family maintains exacting standards for hand-slicing nova salmon into translucent sheets thin enough to read newsprint through—a skill requiring three months' apprenticeship before employees earn permanent counter positions.

What's the difference between nova, lox, and belly lox? Nova is mild cold-smoked salmon named for its original Nova Scotia source, lox is salt-cured without smoking and tastes saltier, and belly lox represents the fattiest, richest portion of salt-cured salmon.

Does Russ & Daughters require reservations? The original Houston Street shop operates first-come counter service, while the Orchard Street cafe takes walk-ins only and texts you when a table opens during weekend waits.

What should first-time visitors order at Russ & Daughters? The "Classic with the Works" combines Eastern nova, cream cheese, tomato, onion, and capers on a hand-rolled bagel, the easiest introduction to appetizing; add a side of whitefish salad.

2nd Ave Deli: Kosher Tradition Relocated

Abe Lebewohl founded 2nd Avenue Delicatessen in 1954 in the old Yiddish Theater District, establishing kosher standards that nephew Jeremy maintains across Murray Hill and Upper East Side locations following the original East Village space's 2006 closure. The deli earned James Beard Foundation's America's Classic Award in 1998 for preserving Eastern European recipes including ptcha (jellied calves' feet broth), stuffed derma, and cholent (Sabbath-compliant slow-cooked stew).

International Kosher Council certification requires kosher-supervised meat and no mixing of meat and dairy; many Orthodox-observant delis also close from Friday evening through Saturday. The Lebewohl family balances these restrictions with accessibility, staying open during Sabbath to serve broader audiences while maintaining kosher meat sourcing and pareve (neither meat nor dairy) preparation standards.

Why do some Orthodox Jews avoid 2nd Ave Deli despite kosher certification? The restaurant operates on Shabbat (Jewish Sabbath), which strict observers consider work prohibited by religious law, though the International Kosher Council certifies all ingredients and preparation methods.

What makes 2nd Ave Deli's matzo ball soup famous? The broth simmers overnight until it turns clear and golden, and the matzo balls are light and fluffy rather than dense.

How does 2nd Ave Deli compare to Katz's for pastrami? Both cure briskets similarly, but 2nd Ave Deli slices thinner portions stacked higher for different texture, and unlike Katz's, it keeps kosher, so meat and dairy never share the menu.

Barney Greengrass: The Sturgeon King's Century

Barney Greengrass earned the "Sturgeon King" nickname in 1938 when New York State Senator James Frawley recognized the shop's smoked fish supremacy after the 1929 move from Harlem to its current Amsterdam Avenue location. Third-generation owner Gary Greengrass maintains grandfather Barney's 1908 commitment to hand-selecting sturgeon, nova, and whitefish while preserving the cash-only, no-lingering service style that prioritizes counter turnover during weekend brunch rushes.

The menu combines retail fish sales with prepared dishes including eggs scrambled with sturgeon, nova, or lox; latkes fried to order; and off-menu specials that servers announce table-by-table. Anthony Bourdain preferred scrambled eggs with nova over the sturgeon version, though most customers follow server recommendations toward the signature smoked sturgeon that arrives silky, fatty, and priced high because sturgeon is scarce and slow to prepare.

Why does Barney Greengrass only accept cash? The family avoids credit card processing fees that would increase prices on already-expensive smoked fish, keeping costs down for neighborhood regulars.

What makes sturgeon worth the premium price? Wild sturgeon populations face overfishing threats requiring sustainable sourcing that drives costs upward, while smoking processes demand precise temperature control preventing the delicate flesh from drying or over-curing during multi-day preparations.

Should I expect to wait for tables at Barney Greengrass? Weekend lines form before opening, but tables turn quickly because servers clear you out once you finish—plan on 45 to 60 minutes from line to exit.

Pastrami Queen: Brooklyn Royalty Moves Manhattan

Originally Pastrami King in 1956 Williamsburg, the deli relocated to Kew Gardens in 1961 before moving to Manhattan, where its Upper East Side flagship serves the hand-carved pastrami Anthony Bourdain ranked alongside Katz's; the Upper West Side location is closed for renovations. The Manhattan flagships keep their kosher certification, while a counter inside Moynihan Food Hall near Penn Station serves commuters.

Owner testimony emphasizes from-scratch daily preparation including hand-cutting, brining, seasoning, drying, and smoking pastrami over 70-year secret recipes refined through generational adjustments. Newer additions include pastrami egg rolls, while core menu items like kasha varnishkes, stuffed cabbage, and tongue tip honor Eastern European deli traditions.

How does Pastrami Queen's kosher certification affect menu options? Kosher supervision requires meat-only operations eliminating cheese-based Reubens and dairy desserts available at non-kosher competitors, so the menu sticks to meat and pareve dishes.

What's the difference between Pastrami Queen and Pastrami King? The deli opened as Pastrami King in 1956 and became Pastrami Queen in 1998, a name chosen for the mother-in-law of then-manager Gary Zinger, with the recipes unchanged.

Why does Pastrami Queen slice meat so thin? Thin slices are more tender and easier to eat, though some customers ask for a thicker cut with more chew.

Mile End Delicatessen: Montreal Meets Brooklyn

Noah Bernamoff and Rae Cohen opened Mile End in Boerum Hill in 2010, importing Montreal Jewish deli traditions distinct from New York's Eastern European heritage. The menu emphasizes smoked meat (Montreal terminology for pastrami) prepared through Canadian curing techniques, poutine in place of the usual potato sides, and whitefish salad made with Great Lakes fish.

The small storefront maintains 15 counter seats with substantial takeout business serving Boerum Hill and downtown Brooklyn. Family recipes anchor the menu, and almost everything is made from scratch. A second location on Bond Street closed in 2018, but the original Hoyt Street address continues introducing New Yorkers to Canadian-Jewish comfort food hybrids.

What makes Montreal smoked meat different from New York pastrami? Montreal curing uses less sugar, more peppercorn, and different smoking temperatures producing leaner, spicier meat than New York's fattier, sweeter pastrami.

Why does Mile End serve poutine at a Jewish deli? The dish represents Quebec's signature contribution to Canadian cuisine, aligning with Mile End neighborhood Montreal heritage that shaped co-founder Noah Bernamoff's childhood food memories and culinary philosophy.

Is Mile End suitable for traditional deli purists? The Canadian influence creates unfamiliar territory for Lower East Side traditionalists, though the smoked meat and whitefish meet Jewish deli standards, Montreal ones rather than New York ones.

For the real thing, head north to these fabulous Montreal restaurants.

Frankel's Delicatessen: Greenpoint's Revival Project

Brothers Zach and Alex Frankel opened their Greenpoint deli in 2016 after Upper West Side childhoods spent at Zabar's and Barney Greengrass informed their approach to Jewish appetizing traditions. The menu emphasizes hand-rolled bagels boiled then baked traditionally, pastrami salmon (gravlax-style cured fish), and latkes fried twice, from a grandmother's recipe, for extra crunch.

Counter-service operations maintain fast-moving lines with minimal seating encouraging McCarren Park takeout during nice weather. The brothers avoid flashy Sadelle's-style productions favoring accessible pricing and neighborhood integration over tourist-destination ambitions. Grandma Frankel's brisket recipe appears on challah rolls, while modernized touches include recession-special hot dogs and plates built for a photo.

Why does Frankel's close so early compared to other delis? The 3 p.m. closing reflects a kitchen that makes a set amount each day; the deli would rather sell out than throw food away.

What's pastrami salmon? How does it differ from regular lox? Pastrami salmon applies traditional pastrami spice rubs to fish instead of beef, creating hybrid flavors combining curing techniques across protein categories for inventive rather than traditional preparations.

Should I visit Frankel's on weekends or weekdays? Weekday mornings have shorter waits, while weekends bring 45- to 60-minute lines testing patience at the counter during peak hours.

Plan Your Next Deli Tour with Miimu

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New York also has Michelin-level dining, as do the other cities in this bundle.

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